Even though Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls are not in Grand Canyon National Park, they ARE located in a side canyon of Grand Canyon. Many people have seen photos of the turquoise waterfalls and just have to visit them. They are hauntingly beautiful, but there are certain things you should know when planning your trip.
All of the tropical-looking waterfalls are located on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. Because it isn't in the national park, there are different rules, regulations, and permit systems. When envisioning your adventure, do not allow romantic thoughts of an unspoiled wilderness barely touched by "civilization"; there are multitudes of feral dogs looking for scraps and trash littering the entire area. And the strench of the toilets can be overwhelming throughout the campground.
The village of Supai is located about 8 miles down Hualapai Trail and must be passed through to get to the campground another two miles away. This is where those camping are required to check in. The office hours are: April through October, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, and November through March, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily. If you are staying at the Lodge, you do not need to stop at this office. Go directly to the lodge for check-in. All fees charged are subject to a 10% tribal tax. Things change often with the Havasupai, so be sure to verify rates and regulations before your arrival.
If you are hiking in and plan on camping, there is a $35 entrance fee per person and a $17 (plus 10% tribal tax) per night, per person camping fee. There is an additional $5 "environmental care fee" per person. For camping reservations, call (928) 448-2141, (928) 448-2121, (928) 448-2174, or (928) 448-2180. Be forewarned that communications are not the tribe's strong suit! There is often nobody answering the phone or it is forever busy. I have heard of more than one person stating that they just showed up, and as long as you pay the fee, you get a campsite. I do know that one night I was there in the spring of 2004, they had overbooked the campground by 100 people!!! And even when it's not considered overbooked, it is packed from spring through fall. The large number of people allowed in the campground is 250! The campground does not have designated sites, so tents are pitched willy-nilly all over the place. Chemical toilets are located at the top and the bottom of the campground and are pretty smelly. I recommend that you get to camp early so you can choose a desirable location away from the stench.
If and when you get through, they will need the following information:
A 50% deposit is required to guarantee the reservation. You can pay the deposit with a credit card (Visa or Mastercard). If you are unable to pay by credit card, you can mail in your payment in the form of money order or Cashier's Check to:
Havasupai Tribe Tourist Office
P.O. Box 160
Supai, Arizona 86435
(928) 448-2120
Your payment must be received in 2 weeks from when you made the reservations or the reservation will expire. A confirmation letter will be forwarded upon receipt of payment. Please bring this in upon your arrival.
There are cancellation fees, so I recommend that you check out their site to read their policies.
If you are interested in staying at the 24-room lodge, the rates are $145 per night (plus 10% tribal tax) and they charge a $40 deposit per room, per night. This rate does not include the $35 per person entrance fee. The lobby hours are quite limited (9:00 AM to 5:00 PM every day), so you'll want to make sure you get there in time for check-in. I've been told the rooms are basic but clean. The rooms have two double beds, a private bath and air-conditioning. Don't expect TV or telephone though! The rooms are non-smoking.
To make reservations, call (928) 448-2111 or (928) 448-2201. You can also try emailing them at lodge@havasupaitribe.com. If you do email them, they will need your first and last name, email address, phone number, and the dates you are requesting. They will contact IF the dates are available.
Visit their lodging page for more information.
The Havasupai people also offer horses for both riding and packing gear. The cost of one pack horse is $75 each way (to/from the campground), and a 50% deposit is required to guarantee the reservation. You can have the horse carry one way, round trip, or from either direction. You are allowed to carry up to four items weighing no more than 130 pounds total on each horse. The load must be divided evenly so it can be balanced on the pack saddle. The prices are slightly less for going to the lodge. Visit their site to find out how to make reservations and get more information on additional requirements.
As you may have already gathered from what I've said above, don't expect a "wilderness" experience when visiting Havasu. It is busy, noisy, smelly, and dirty. Many of the people who visit are there to party. That same night that the campground was overbooked by 100 people, there were jokers up with their boom boxes blasting away and playing Frisbee at 1:00 in the morning! One of the Frisbees actually hit one of the tents in my party, and they weren't in the least apologetic.
That being said, the waterfalls (Havasu, Navajo, and Mooney in particular) are exquisite and worth one visit in your lifetime. Many people can handle it more than I can—go for it!
Helicopter flights between Hualapai Hilltop and Supai are available Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday, weather permitting. Fees vary, and tickets are issued on a first-come, first-served basis from 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. $40 landing fee. I've heard people say that they were told one price when reserving and charged much more when they took the actual flight. Be forewarned!
I recommend reading some trip reports by others to get a well-rounded view of what a hike into Havasu is like. Here are just a few:
Havasu Falls by Michael Briski
Havasupai, Grand Canyon Backpack
There are many more great trip reports out there. Visit my Trip Reports page to find more links. Happy Trails!
Distances for various destinations are as follows:
| Trail Distances (one way): | Miles | Kilometers |
| Hualapai Hilltop to Supai | 8 | 13 |
| Supai to campground | 2 | 3 |
| Hualapai Hilltop to campground | 10 | 16 |
| Campground to Mooney Falls | 0.5 | 0.8 |
| Mooney Falls to Colorado River | 8 | 13 |